Overview
The Bernina Express is the sort of train that makes you forget you booked it for the scenery and not the destination. It runs between Chur, in eastern Switzerland, and Tirano, just over the Italian border, tracing a route through the Alps that changes character almost by the hour: glacial valleys give way to high passes, which give way to the softer, warmer air of northern Italy.
This is not a train you take because it's the fastest way anywhere. It is a train you take because the Rhaetian Railway has built its reputation on this line, and because the landscape between Chur and Tirano is the whole point of the journey rather than something to be endured between stations.
What follows is a practical guide to riding it well: how to think about timing and booking, what the difference between classes actually feels like, where to sit, and how the experience shifts with the seasons.
Key facts
| From | Chur |
|---|---|
| To | Tirano |
| Operator | Rhaetian Railway |
The route: Chur to Tirano
The journey begins in Chur, often described as Switzerland's oldest town, and heads south into the mountains operated throughout by the Rhaetian Railway. From there the character of the landscape builds steadily — you move from valley floors and forested slopes into increasingly dramatic high-alpine terrain as the line climbs toward the Bernina Pass area.
By the time the train crosses into Italy and descends toward Tirano, the scenery has softened again, with the sharper alpine drama giving way to gentler, more Mediterranean-feeling surroundings near the finish. Few railway journeys pack such a range of landscape into a single route, and it's this contrast — glacier to vineyard, in effect — that gives the Bernina Express its reputation.
Timetable and how to book
Services on this route vary by season, and the Rhaetian Railway adjusts frequency and timing according to demand and conditions in the mountains. Because of this, there is no substitute for checking directly with the operator before you travel — do not rely on old timetables or assume a service you took previously still runs at the same time.
Booking works the same way: reservations and any seasonal variations are best confirmed with the Rhaetian Railway itself. If you have a fixed connection to make at either end, particularly onward travel from Tirano, build in some flexibility and confirm your timings close to the date of travel rather than relying on assumptions made months in advance.
Fares and classes
The Bernina Express typically offers a distinction between standard and higher comfort classes, and the difference is really about the physical experience of the carriage rather than anything hidden. Higher classes tend to mean a quieter, more spacious cabin, a greater sense of comfort in the seating, and sometimes a more attentive onboard service.
Panoramic windows are a defining feature of this train regardless of class, so the core appeal — the views — isn't something you need to pay a premium for. What changes with class is comfort and service level, not the scenery itself. For exact fares, supplements, and how classes are structured on any given date, check directly with the Rhaetian Railway, since these details are set by the operator and can change.
Which side to sit, and getting the best views
Because the route changes character so often, there's no single perfect side for the entire journey — the best views shift depending on which stretch of line you're on. A good general approach is to stay alert rather than settle in for one side and doze; some of the most striking moments come and go quickly as the train winds through the mountains.
If you can, try to avoid rush-hour-style crowding at the windows by choosing your seat early and being ready with a camera or simply your eyes rather than a phone screen. Panoramic carriages are designed so that most seats get a reasonable view, so don't be too anxious about the exact seat number — focus instead on being alert as the train climbs and descends.
The onboard experience
Life on board this kind of train is built around the panoramic windows, which are the single most important design feature of the whole service. The pace is unhurried by intention: this is a train for looking outward, not for working through emails, and the carriages are set up to make that easy.
Catering is generally available on board, in keeping with what you'd expect from a long scenic alpine route, though exact offerings can vary and are best confirmed with the operator if you have specific requirements. Announcements and information along the route typically help you understand what you're seeing as the train moves through different regions, adding context to the changing landscape outside.
Best season to travel
The experience of the Bernina Express changes considerably across the year, because the landscape it passes through is genuinely alpine and reacts to the seasons in a dramatic way. In winter, expect snow-covered peaks and a crisp, stark beauty, with the high pass areas looking their most severe and striking.
In summer, the same route reveals green valleys, more visible detail in the rock and forest, and generally longer daylight hours in which to see it all. Spring and autumn bring their own transitional character, often with dramatic light and fewer crowds than peak summer. There isn't a wrong time to travel this line, but your experience will differ significantly depending on when you go, so think about which version of the Alps you'd rather see.
Alternatives and onward connections from Tirano
Arriving in Tirano puts you just over the border in northern Italy, and from there onward travel generally continues into the Italian rail network, giving you options to continue further into Italy. Exactly which connections are available and how they line up with your Bernina Express arrival is something to check with the operator or Italian rail services directly, since this can change by season.
If the full Chur-to-Tirano run isn't practical for your itinerary, it's worth asking the Rhaetian Railway about partial journeys along the same line, since the scenery is distributed across the whole route rather than concentrated in one short section. This can make a shorter segment worthwhile if time is tight.
A note on history and context
The Bernina Express runs on a line built and operated by the Rhaetian Railway, part of a broader tradition of alpine railway engineering that stretches back to an era when connecting isolated Swiss valleys by rail was considered a serious feat of engineering ambition. The line's enduring appeal is partly that this history is still visible: the route itself, not just the train, is the achievement.
Over successive eras the service has evolved from a working alpine connection into one of the best-known scenic rail journeys in Europe, but the fundamental engineering challenge it solved — linking north and south across genuinely difficult alpine terrain — remains the reason the journey feels so remarkable today.
Common questions
- Do I need to book in advance?
- Reservations and seasonal timetable details are set by the Rhaetian Railway, so check and book directly with them rather than assuming availability, especially in peak season.
- Which class should I choose?
- Both classes give you the panoramic windows the train is known for; the main difference is comfort and service level, so choose based on how much you value extra space and attentive service rather than for the view itself.
- Is there a best side of the train to sit on?
- There's no single best side for the whole journey since the scenery changes character repeatedly; it's more useful to stay alert throughout than to fix on one side.
- What's the best time of year to travel?
- Winter gives you dramatic snow-covered peaks, summer gives you green valleys and long daylight, and spring/autumn offer a transitional character with fewer crowds — it depends which landscape you want to see.
- Can I connect onward from Tirano into Italy?
- Generally yes, Tirano connects into the Italian rail network, but confirm specific connections and timings with the operator or Italian rail services since these can vary by season.
On the map
Sources & method
- OpenStreetMap route=train (ODbL) — route
See our methodology for how Head Your Way sources and reviews travel data.