Overview
The R22 is the unglamorous, thoroughly useful train that links Milano Cadorna with Varese Nord, cutting out from under the towers of the city centre and working its way up into Lombardy's northern edges. It is not a train that shouts about itself, and that's rather the point: this is a working regional service, and its charm is in what it quietly shows you along the way.
Cadorna itself is one of Milan's smaller, more characterful terminals, and leaving from there already sets a different tone to a grander departure from Centrale. As the R22 clears the suburbs, the scenery loosens up, the pace of the city falls away, and by the time Varese Nord arrives you're somewhere altogether calmer.
This is a guide for anyone treating the R22 as it deserves: not a spectacular set-piece journey, but a genuinely pleasant, practical way to move between Milan and Varese, with enough going on outside the window to make the trip worthwhile in its own right.
Key facts
| From | Milano Cadorna |
|---|---|
| To | Varese Nord |
| Operator | Trenord |
The route: from city terminus to northern Lombardy
Milano Cadorna sits close to the centre of Milan, and the R22 begins its journey by threading out through the city's inner suburbs before the built-up density starts to thin. This opening stretch has an unmistakably urban character, all closely packed buildings and the ordinary rhythm of a big city commuter line.
As the train continues north towards Varese Nord, the landscape gradually changes. The dense city grid gives way to smaller towns, then to a greener, more open feel as Lombardy's northern reaches take over. It's a journey that moves, in a fairly short space of time, from metropolitan Milan to the gentler, more provincial character of the area around Varese.
None of this is dramatic in the way of a mountain railway or a coastal line, but it is a satisfying transition to watch unfold, and it gives the R22 a real sense of taking you somewhere distinctly different from where you started.
Timetable and how to book
Services on the R22 vary according to the time of year, and the only sensible approach is to check current times directly with Trenord before you travel. Regional services of this kind are typically frequent and designed for practical, repeatable travel rather than a single showcase departure, but exact frequency and timing should always be confirmed with the operator rather than assumed.
Booking arrangements, likewise, should be checked with Trenord directly. As a regional link between Milan and Varese, this is a route generally used for straightforward point-to-point travel, and the operator's own channels are the right place to confirm how to purchase and validate tickets for your specific date of travel.
Fares and classes
Where a train of this kind offers more than one class of travel, the difference tends to come down to comfort and space rather than a wholly different experience: a first-class style cabin generally offers a bit more room, a quieter atmosphere, and sometimes a slightly different seating layout, while standard class delivers the same journey with a more functional, no-frills feel.
Exact fares are not something to guess at here — they change, they depend on ticket type, and the only reliable source is Trenord itself. What's worth knowing in general terms is that any premium on a regional service like this buys comfort and space rather than an entirely different physical journey; the view from the window and the route taken are the same whichever class you choose.
Which side to sit for the best views
On a route that moves from dense city streets into the more open, greener landscape towards Varese, a window seat is the whole point of the journey. Exactly which side gives the better outlook can shift depending on the specific alignment of the line and time of day, so it's worth keeping an open mind and being ready to switch sides if the train isn't full.
As a general rule on regional lines like this, sitting away from the sun's glare — so on the shaded side, given the direction and time of your journey — tends to make photography and general viewing easier, particularly as the train moves out of the city and the landscape opens up around Varese.
The onboard experience
Expect the onboard feel of the R22 to be that of a well-used regional train: practical, comfortable enough for a journey of this length, and built around getting people between Milan and Varese without fuss. Panoramic windows are typical of this kind of rolling stock, giving good visibility of the changing scenery as the route unfolds.
Don't expect a dedicated dining car or an elaborate catering service — regional trains of this type are generally set up for shorter, functional journeys, so it's sensible to bring your own food and drink if you'd like refreshments on board. The real appeal here is the window and what's passing outside it, not an onboard event in itself.
Best season to travel
The character of this journey shifts with the seasons, as it would on any line moving between a major city and a greener, more provincial area. Spring and autumn tend to bring a particularly pleasant look to the landscape around Varese, with the changing light doing a lot of the work in making the journey feel worthwhile.
Summer brings longer days and better visibility for the whole route, which suits anyone travelling mainly for the view. Winter has its own quieter appeal — a starker, more subdued landscape — though as with any regional service, it's worth checking with Trenord for how services and timings might be adjusted seasonally.
Alternatives and onward connections
Varese Nord functions as a natural point to continue onward, whether that's exploring the town itself or connecting into other regional services in the area. As with timetables and fares, the specifics of onward connections are best confirmed with Trenord at the time of travel, since regional networks of this kind are periodically adjusted.
If the R22 doesn't suit your schedule, it's worth checking with Trenord whether alternative regional services cover the same or a similar route between Milan and Varese, as regional lines in this part of Lombardy are often served by more than one option depending on the time of day.
A note on history and context
The line between Milan and Varese belongs to a long tradition of regional railways built to connect the city with the smaller towns and provinces to its north, part of a wider pattern of suburban and regional expansion that shaped how Lombardy's towns grew alongside their railways.
Milano Cadorna itself has long served as one of the city's characterful secondary termini, distinct in feel from the grander Centrale, and its ongoing role as the starting point for lines like the R22 reflects that continuing tradition of practical, everyday regional rail travel connecting Milan with the towns beyond it.
Common questions
- Do I need to book the R22 in advance?
- Booking requirements can vary, so it's best to check directly with Trenord before you travel to confirm how tickets for this route should be purchased and whether advance booking is necessary.
- How long does the journey take?
- Journey times aren't something to guess at, as they can vary by service and season. Check current timings directly with Trenord.
- Is there food available on board?
- This is a regional service and shouldn't be expected to offer dedicated catering. It's sensible to bring your own food and drink for the journey.
- Which side of the train has the better view?
- It can vary depending on the exact alignment and time of day, so it's worth being flexible about where you sit, particularly once the train moves beyond Milan's suburbs into more open landscape.
- What's the best time of year to take this journey?
- Spring and autumn tend to show the landscape around Varese at its most attractive, though summer offers longer daylight for viewing and winter has its own quieter character. Check with Trenord for any seasonal timetable changes.
On the map
Sources & method
- OpenStreetMap route=train (ODbL) — route
See our methodology for how Head Your Way sources and reviews travel data.